Tile a shower yourself? You have already tossed around the idea of whether to
install a prefab shower or a tiled shower...and the tiled shower won out.
Tools and Materials
- Tile
- Thinset mortar
- Grout
- Notched trowel
- Rubber float
- Tile spacers
- Bathroom silicone caulk
- Seam sealer
- Sponge
- Haze remover
1. Shower Stall is Stripped to Studs
We are assuming that the shower stall is already completely stripped down to the studs. This means everything except for floor pan: walls, ceiling, hardware. If you're having trouble contemplating the sheer ugliness of
demolition, this is your second chance to hire a
remodeling contractor. (We are not covering shower pan replacement in this article, so either assume that the same pan remains or that you are replacing one-for-one with another pan)
2. Install Cement Board
Install
Wonderboard or Hardibacker (James Hardie Industries). Remember, this is cement board - a material designed for tile, not
drywall greenboard. Greenboard is for the outlying areas, not for the shower itself. Allow 1/8 inch gap between cement boards. Seal gaps with bathroom caulking.
3. Mark First Row
Using a level, mark the location of your first row of tiles with a contractor's pencil - this will be the bottom row. Avoid having the bottom edge of the tiles exactly hit the bottom of the cement board. Instead, make sure there is an overlap of about a half-inch.
4. Mortar Bottom Row
Apply
thinset mortar to bottom row area.
5. Install First Row of Tile
Use your notched trowel to lay down a thin coat of mortar. Firmly press in your first row of tiles. Tile should stick without any other aid. Let this row set for at least half a day, because all other rows depend on this row.
6. Continue Rows of Tile Upward
Install upper rows, keeping them spaced away on all four sides with tile spacers (inexpensive plastic "crosses" available at your hardware store). Keep in mind
proper tile spacing technique. Continue to top. Upper-most row will most likely require cutting with a wet tile saw.
7. Grout the Tile
Let tile set for 48 hours. Use your rubber float to press grout into the seams. This is different "aesthetic" grout that will be visible. No doubt you will want to choose a special type of grout whose color complements your tile. Smooth the grout into the tile. Follow by judiciously using a wet sponge to further smooth grout into the tiles. If you apply too much pressure, you will end up removing the grout from between the tiles.
8. Remove Grout Haze and Seal Seams
Repeat process until haze is nearly removed (haze cleaners are available to further remove grout haze). Finally, seal seams with special grout sealer. Failure to seal seams means that water can work into the seams and behind the tile, eventually destroying your careful work.
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